How to Wear a Scarf: The Right Fold for Every Neckline

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How to wear a scarf comes down to one useful question: what does this neckline need? A small silk square can finish an open shirt. A long cashmere scarf belongs with a coat. A wrap is for your shoulders, not a knot you have to keep adjusting. Start with the clothes, then choose the scarf.

I would keep the first try simple: one fold, one loose knot, and enough space to turn your head comfortably. The print should add something to the outfit rather than hide the collar, necklace and shirt all at once.

How to wear a scarf with an open shirt

A black dotted silk bandana is a neat starting point when a large square feels like too much fabric. Echo’s Dotty is a 21-inch silk square, so think small neck detail, not a shoulder layer. Lay it flat, fold two opposite corners toward the center, then fold the long edges inward to make a band. Drape it behind your neck and tie the ends once, loosely, below the opening of the shirt. Add a second loose tie only if it needs one to stay put.

The green and orange silk scarf by Hobbs brings green and orange into a plain shirt without needing another printed piece. Keep one end a little longer for a less arranged finish. The navy printed silk square from Boden is a different navy option; at about 23⅝ inches square, it is better suited to a close, small fold than a sweeping drape. Shop here

Give a crewneck a little space

With a high neckline, leave a gap between the sweater and your knot. For a softer triangle, fold a square corner to corner, put the point in front, take the ends around the back and bring them forward. Tie loosely under the triangle rather than pulling it up to your chin. Try it with the navy illustrated silk square from Echo, a 35-inch square that leaves more fabric to work with than a bandana. If the result feels bulky, return to the narrow band fold.

Let a long scarf work with the coat

The natural cashmere scarf from Johnstons of Elgin is the warm-layer choice here, not a substitute for a small neckerchief. Drape it inside an open coat with the ends hanging down, then fasten the coat to check the bulk. For a simple loop, fold the scarf in half lengthways, put it behind your neck and pass the loose ends through the folded end. Leave the loop relaxed rather than cinching it tight. Shop here

For color without that long cashmere shape, try the turquoise printed silk scarf from J.Crew with a plain knit. Its diagonal bands make a folded scarf look different from the full square. Pick up one color in the outfit, or keep the rest quiet and let the print stand on its own. Shop here

Choose the print before choosing the knot

The floral silk square from LILYSILK has a pale center and dark border. Fold it so the border shows if you want a more defined edge near a collar. The blue shield-print silk square from Aspinal of London is a larger 90-centimeter silk square, with more fabric for a loose triangle or shoulder fold. That size is useful when you want to see the print; it can feel excessive inside a tightly buttoned shirt. Shop here Shop here

Wear a wrap as a layer

The navy crinkle wrap from Echo is a 38-by-72-inch modal-silk blend, a different job from a silk bandana. Open it across your shoulders for a cool room, or fold it once lengthwise and drape it loosely with the ends in front. Keep enough width at the back that you can move your arms. A wrap that needs constant fixing is not helping the evening. Shop here

Keep a small square small

The london-print silk scarf by Liberty is 45 centimeters square. Its detailed London print is the reason to choose it, but the dimensions matter: use a narrow fold and small knot rather than trying to reproduce a tie designed for a much larger scarf. A plain shirt gives the map-like print room to be seen. Shop here

Check the whole outfit before leaving

Put the coat on, pick up the bag and turn your head. If the scarf catches the bag strap or crowds the collar, change the fold instead of adding another knot. Leave a necklace off when it competes at the same spot. A scarf can be the finishing detail without becoming the entire outfit.

For storage between wears, a scarf drawer divider is one way to keep small squares separate from long wraps.

Browse my scarf collection for the pieces in this guide.

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Shop the Post

• black dotted silk bandana
• green and orange silk scarf
• navy printed silk square
• navy illustrated silk square
• natural cashmere scarf
• turquoise printed silk scarf
• floral silk square
• blue shield-print silk square
• navy crinkle wrap
• london-print silk scarf