Aspen in Winter: Ski Season, the Gondola, Where to Eat and Stay, and What to Wear

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Mytheresa big sale, checked October 27: The Fusalp Maela jacket, Goldbergh Liah ski suit and Tod’s Winter Gommino boots below are in the extra 20% off sale offer on eligible orders of $350 or more, through November 8 at 11:59 p.m. CET (2:59 p.m. Pacific). Exclusions apply; check the retailer’s terms before buying. Other picks are not presented as part of this offer.

Aspen in winter is a different town: the fur coats come out, lunch runs long, and the whole place orbits the mountain. We have been in every season, and winter is the trip that takes the most planning. This is how I do it: the gondola, the slopes, the tables worth booking early, and exactly what to pack.

Shop the full collection: buy it here.

Already been in another season? See my Aspen in fall outfits, my 7-day fall capsule wardrobe, and my Aspen summer looks. Going during the quieter low season? The fall posts are the ones to read.

Take the Gondola

The Silver Queen Gondola goes straight from the middle of town to the top of Aspen Mountain, so a coffee downtown and the summit are the same ride. You do not need to ski to go up: ride it for the view and a slow lunch at the top. Aspen Mountain’s season is scheduled to run November 26 through April 18, conditions permitting.

Smartwool Classic Thermal Merino Base Layer Crew in Almond Donegal - Aspen in Winter
Smartwool Thermal Merino Crew Shop here
Photo credit: Smartwool
Burton GORE-TEX Leather Gondy Gloves in Stout White - Aspen in Winter
Burton Gondy Leather Gloves Shop here
Photo credit: Burton
L.L.Bean Supersoft Waffle Sweater Fair Isle Mockneck - Aspen in Winter
L.L.Bean Fair Isle Waffle Sweater Shop here
Photo credit: L.L.Bean

What to wear: a sightseeing gondola ride

For a non-ski ride and lunch at the summit, I would wear the oversized Oatmeal cashmere crew under the camel Dylan town coat with the waterproof town boots from the restaurant section below. Bring proper gloves and a warm hat; the summit is colder than town even on a blue day. And for cold hotel floors afterward, the Jenni Kayne Ember shearling flat in wheat is the cozy answer.

Oatmeal cashmere for a gondola-day layer

Quince oversized Oatmeal cashmere crewneck. One hundred percent cashmere, roomy, and the kind of oatmeal neutral that goes with everything in a ski-town suitcase: coffee in town, a sightseeing lunch, under the camel coat outside. It is a town knit, not a technical base layer.

What to Do in Aspen in Winter

  • Ski or snowboard. Aspen Snowmass has four mountains, and Aspen Mountain, Snowmass, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk all have different terrain, so pick by comfort level.
  • Ride the gondola just for the views and lunch, no skis needed.
  • Walk downtown for window shopping and people watching.
  • Take a long lunch or an après stop after skiing.
  • Book a spa afternoon on a rest day.
A chair made from skis beside a snowy creek. - Aspen in Winter

On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info
Madewell Devon satin pants in Dark Chicory - Aspen in Winter
Madewell Devon Satin Trousers Shop here
Photo credit: Madewell
Burton Gondy GORE-TEX Leather Mittens in Stout White - Aspen in Winter
Burton Gondy Leather Mittens Shop here
Photo credit: Burton
Fusalp Maela belted ski jacket in blue - Aspen in Winter
Fusalp Maela Belted Ski Jacket Shop here
Photo credit: Fusalp

Dark Chicory satin trousers for arrival and lunch

Madewell Devon satin pants in Dark Chicory. Pull-on waist, relaxed straight leg, washed satin that looks polished in photos. The fabric is polyester, so think of them as an indoors piece: the journey, the lobby, lunch. Change into weather-ready layers before any long walk outside.

What to wear: a day on the four mountains

On the mountain I ski in a red Capranea down jacket and black Capranea ski pants, and the difference between real technical pieces and imitations is obvious by the second lift ride. Whichever route you go, you need one ski jacket-and-pants set or a ski suit, thermal base layers, fitted boots, helmet, goggles, warm socks and gloves. Have a ski shop check your boot and binding compatibility before day one.

Ski jackets, pants and suits

Base layers and workout pieces under your ski clothes

Use thermal base layers for the mountain. The athletic leggings below are alternatives to test for comfort and warmth, not a promise they suit every ski day.

Ear warmers

A Pink Ski Helmet

Looking for a pink ski helmet? This Smith color is worth a look if you want something beyond black.

Smith Descend Mips in Matte Pink Frost: A soft pink ski helmet for your mountain outfit. shop here

Downhill Ski Boots: Fit Comes First

Ski boots are different from the boots you wear around town. A bootfitter can help you choose the right size and fit for your feet. Have a ski shop check the boots with your bindings before you ski.

Nordica Speedmachine 3 85 W BOA: A women’s downhill ski boot with a BOA closure. Put fit ahead of color when choosing your pair. shop here

Atomic Hawx Magna 85 W: A women’s ski boot with a roomier, high-volume fit to discuss with your bootfitter. shop here

A Thermal Top Under Your Ski Clothes

A good thermal top is the layer that decides whether you are cold by mid-morning. Bring the base-layer bottoms and neck gaiter you already know work for you.

Smartwool Women’s Classic Thermal Merino Base Layer Crew in Almond Donegal: A long-sleeve thermal top to wear under your jacket. shop here

Ski Pants for the Slopes

Start with snow pants that fit over your base layers. An insulated pair is an easy place to start; a shell gives you more control over what goes underneath.

The North Face Freedom Insulated Pants: Insulated snow pants to layer over your base layers. shop here

Burton Reserve GORE-TEX 2L Pants: A GORE-TEX shell pant for resort days when the weather turns. shop here

Ski Gloves for the Mountain

Cold lift rides are where flimsy gloves show. These two are worth packing.

Burton GORE-TEX Leather Gondy Gloves: Leather ski gloves with a GORE-TEX waterproof layer. shop here

Black Diamond Women’s Legend Gloves: A warm glove option for days on the slopes. shop here

Ski Mittens for Extra Warmth

Prefer mittens? Here is another option for your ski bag.

Burton Gondy GORE-TEX Leather Mittens: Leather mittens with a GORE-TEX waterproof layer. shop here

Warm Ski Socks

Keep the socks smooth under your boots. Choose the thickness that works with your boot fit.

Icebreaker Women’s Merino Blend Ski+ Ultralight Over-the-Calf Socks: A thin merino-blend sock for a close fit in the boot. shop here

Small hand warmers for cold outdoor days

A few sealed HotHands hand warmers take up no room in a jacket pocket and can save a cold lift ride. The ten-pair pack is single-use and air-activated: follow the packet, keep them off bare skin, and treat them as backup to proper gloves, not a substitute. Shop the ten-pair hand-warmer pack here, or find the same ten-pair pack here too.

A dark-brown cardigan for the lobby

Reformation Clara cashmere cardigan in Mole. Clara is a relaxed button-front cardigan in Mole, a dark-brown neutral. Its cashmere blend is 95-percent recycled cashmere and 5-percent cashmere. Wear it over a tank for the hotel lobby or over the sleeveless black dinner dress for another layer indoors.

Where to Eat

The good tables book out weeks ahead in peak season, so reserve before you fly. The ones I plan a trip around:

  • Element 47 at The Little Nell for a polished dinner.

    Element 47 is The Little Nell’s restaurant and the dressiest dinner in town; if you do one hotel dinner, make it this one. The black Quince sleeveless cashmere midi dress, the tall waterproof boots for the walk, and a warm coat over the top.

  • Matsuhisa for Japanese and sushi.

    Matsuhisa is the sushi dinner, upstairs in a little Victorian house off Main Street. The black cashmere midi again with your own small bag and a proper coat; tall waterproof boots for the snowy walk, dinner shoes in your tote if you like.

  • Cache Cache, the long-running French bistro.

    Cache Cache is the longtime French bistro and the hardest table to get. The black cashmere midi with quiet jewelry and a small evening bag; warm coat and snow-ready boots for the walk.

  • Ajax Tavern for a lunch right at the base of Aspen Mountain.

    Lunch after skiing is a change-out-of-ski-clothes meal: the Oatmeal cashmere crew and Dark Chicory Devon satin pants with the short waterproof town boots. The satin pants are an indoors piece, so keep this to lunches inside, not a snowy terrace.

  • Casa Tua and Sant Ambroeus, both in my fall post.

    Casa Tua feels like a private club upstairs. The black cashmere midi with the Clara cardigan over your shoulders, your own small bag, and snow-ready boots for outside.

    Sant Ambroeus is the Milan import for coffee and a long lunch. Rewear your own warm knit and trousers, or the black cashmere midi coming from the hotel; short waterproof boots for the walk.

  • The Wild Fig for dinner.

    The Wild Fig is the locals’ Mediterranean favorite. The black cashmere midi one more time with your own coat and evening bag. One good dinner dress genuinely covers the whole week.

  • Paradise Bakery for an easy daytime stop.

    Cold mornings call for the Oatmeal cashmere crew with weather-ready trousers, short waterproof boots, and the warm beanie you already own.

A camel coat for town, not the slopes

Anine Bing Dylan coat in Camel Cashmere Blend. Dylan is an oversized, double-faced coat in 90-percent wool and 10-percent cashmere, with a double-breasted front and removable tie belt. It is a town coat, not waterproof technical snowwear.

Ceviche with avocado and chips and a feta salad at The Wild Fig. - Aspen in Winter

On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info

A black cashmere midi for dinner indoors

Quince black cashmere sleeveless midi sweater dress. One hundred percent cashmere with fisherman-rib detailing, no sleeves. This is the one dinner dress to pack: it works at every restaurant above, with the Clara cardigan when you want your arms covered. Coat on outside; it is an indoors dress.

Black ankle boots for dinner, not snow or ice

Madewell Idris ankle boots in True Black. The leather Idris boots have an elongated square toe and a low stacked heel. Pair them with the black midi dress once you are indoors, or on clear, dry paths only. They are not snow or ice boots. Keep the waterproof Sorel boots below for outdoor transfers, and change shoes at dinner if needed.

A small black bag for the dinner table

Veronica Beard Prism mini shoulder bag in Black. The Prism is a compact zip bag that converts between a shoulder bag and a wristlet. It measures 8.66 by 4.72 by 5.12 inches, so measure your phone and evening essentials rather than assuming it holds a whole travel day. The black leather keeps the dress-and-cardigan outfit simple.

Town boots and cold-day accessories

Après-Ski Boots for Town and Dinner

Once the ski boots come off, you still need something that can handle a snowy sidewalk to dinner.

Sorel Out N About IV Classic Women’s Waterproof Boot: A waterproof boot for walking around town after the slopes. shop here

Sorel Joan of Arctic Women’s Waterproof Boot: A taller waterproof boot option for snowy walks to dinner. shop here

INUIKII Classic Leather Snow Boots: A dark brown leather snow boot with a warm lining that handles snowy sidewalks on the way to dinner. shop here

BOGNER Chamonix Shearling Snow Boots: A black shearling snow boot with a lug sole for the coldest nights out. shop here

Tod’s Winter Gommino Leather Lace-Up Boots: A tan leather lace-up boot with a warm lining for town days when you want something dressier than a snow boot. shop here

INUIKII Classic Leather Snow Boots - Aspen in Winter
INUIKII Classic Leather Snow Boots Shop here
Photo credit: INUIKII
BOGNER Chamonix Shearling Snow Boots - Aspen in Winter
BOGNER Chamonix Shearling Snow Boots Shop here
Photo credit: BOGNER
Tod's Winter Gommino Leather Lace-Up Boots
Tod’s Winter Gommino Leather Lace-Up Boots Shop here
Photo credit: Tod’s

Shopping early gives you the best choice of sizes. I also wrote about this in buying your ski wardrobe ahead of the season.

Where to Stay

  • Hotel Jerome: the historic downtown hotel.

    What to wear: For arrival and the lobby, the Devon satin pants with the Mole Clara cardigan are polished enough for check-in and comfortable enough for the drive up. Add a real coat and snow-ready boots for transfers. Pack swimwear only if your hotel confirms pool or spa access.

  • The Little Nell: right at the base of Aspen Mountain, steps from the gondola.
  • White Elephant Aspen.
  • The St. Regis Aspen Resort.

These photos are from our breakfast at the St. Regis Aspen. Book it even if you are not staying at the hotel: it is the easiest way to see the property, and the breakfast itself is lovely.

Moët & Chandon champagne bar cart with a gold ice bucket at the St. Regis Aspen breakfast
On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info
Anine Bing Dylan coat in Camel Cashmere Blend - Aspen in Winter
ANINE BING Dylan Coat Shop here
Photo credit: Anine Bing
Goldbergh Liah ski suit in black - Aspen in Winter
Goldbergh Liah Ski Suit Shop here
Photo credit: Goldbergh
Jenni Kayne alpaca basketweave throw in oatmeal - Aspen in Winter
Jenni Kayne Alpaca Basketweave Throw Shop here
Photo credit: Jenni Kayne
Brass bar cart with fresh juices and berry cups at the St. Regis Aspen breakfast
On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info
Pancakes, pastries and eggs on the breakfast table at the St. Regis Aspen
On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info
Madewell Idris ankle boots in True Black - Aspen in Winter
Madewell Idris Ankle Boots Shop here
Photo credit: Madewell
Jenni Kayne Ember shearling flat in wheat - Aspen in Winter
Jenni Kayne Ember Shearling Flat Shop here
Photo credit: Jenni Kayne
Veronica Beard Prism mini shoulder bag in Black - Aspen in Winter
Veronica Beard Prism Mini Bag Shop here
Photo credit: Veronica Beard

These Hotel Jerome photos are from our nonwinter visits; the lobby bar is a year-round stop.

Hotel Jerome entrance sign beneath a balcony on the red-brick Aspen hotel.

On our visit – aspen in winter. Photo credit: Shopping and Info

A grey cashmere scarf for the hotel arrival

Quince cashmere scarf in Heather Grey. The Heather Grey scarf is 100-percent cashmere and measures 10 by 70 inches. Wear it with the camel coat on a town transfer, then take it off in the lobby. It is a clothing layer, not a replacement for a ski neck gaiter, helmet or weather-ready outerwear.

For the journey to Aspen

My Travel Must-Have: A Privacy Screen for Your Phone

A privacy screen protector is the one thing I never travel without. BodyGuardz makes one for iPhone 17 Pro that narrows the viewing angle, so the person next to you on the plane sees a dark screen. Mine is here: shop here.

Planning Tip: Aspen’s Airport Closure in 2027

If you are planning ahead: Aspen/Pitkin County Airport is scheduled to close for runway reconstruction from April 4, 2027 until November 19, 2027. The airport closure overlaps the end of Aspen Mountain’s scheduled ski season on April 18, 2027. After the airport closes at 11 p.m. on April 4, plan to use an alternate regional airport and check ground transportation before booking. The airport is scheduled to reopen at 7 p.m. on November 19; the construction schedule can change. Source: Aspen/Pitkin County Airport announcement.

A Hunter women’s cable beanie in Midnight is a town-accessory option for the walk to lunch or a coffee stop. A beanie is not a replacement for a properly fitted ski helmet.

An Alpaca Throw for After Skiing

After a cold day outside, one great throw makes a rental feel finished. The Jenni Kayne alpaca basketweave throw in oatmeal is the one.

More from Shopping and Info

Browse what to pack for a ski trip. Browse the seasonal bag edit. Browse what to wear in Aspen in fall.

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